Lightroom and Photoshop working together

These notes were prepared as part of a Lightroom Training Course for Cardiff U3A. There are many better references to how Photoshop and Lightroom work together, not least of which is Scott Kelby’s book. There are references to other articles and videos at the end of this post.

First a little house-keeping of your software and hardware.

Maximising performance – Graphic accelerator

If your system has a Graphics Accelerator, make sure it’s switched on for both Lightroom and Photoshop (otherwise you may get a warning message when Photoshop starts).

In Lightroom>Preferences>Performance

In Photoshop>Preferences>Performance

Setting up Lightroom and Photoshop for same Colour Space

In Lightroom>Preferences>External Editing – choose ProPhoto RGB, and if your intention is to save the image back to Lightroom – potentially for further editing – choose PSD as your file format. Also I suggest giving the external file a slightly different name eg add -PsEdit to the filename because although it will be returned as a Photoshop .psd file, it’s sometimes just worthwhile to make sure you know the image you’re looking at HAS been edited in Photoshop.

In Photoshop>Edit>Colour Settings – choose ProPhoto RGB

Having done these, or perhaps even before doing these, why not check your camera, printer and monitor are all working in the same colour space – I’d suggest using sRGB (not Adobe sRG). If you want the complete low-down on all matters to do with colour space and profiles look at this article, or this one, however a much less technical article that informed my thinking is this one.

In any case it might be worth making sure your monitor is calibrated to show the best representation of what your camera captures, and also to make sure that you set your print options to let your Printer Manage the colour. Hopefully, this guide from Adobe might help!

Getting an image into Photoshop

In Lightroom, select and image and press … cmd-E (Mac) or ctrl-E (PC) – if Photoshop is not already open, it will open automatically.

Returning an image to Lightroom

If you’ve setup the Filename as I have suggested (in Lightroom – see above), just press … cmd-S (Mac) or ctrl-S (PC) and the .psd file will be saved back to Lightroom to sit alongside the original file which will not have been changed!

So, what might you want to use Photoshop for …

  1. Changing the canvas size of an image and cloning in a background to fill the new extended canvas
  2. Content aware fill of background space after transformation (eg rotation)of an image
  3. Focus stacking in macro and landscape photography to give front to back depth of field
  4. Removing a background altogether to get the subject out of an image to be able to put it somewhere else
  5. Removing anything from an image , eg an unwanted person
  6. Removing something that detracts from an image (eg a fence, or a post)
  7. Replacing a boring sky
  8. Changing the colour of anything

I will look at just a couple of these …

Changing the Canvas Size and Cloning a background

Photoshop>Image>Canvas Size – change size of canvas space using the arrow keys to indicate where the anchor point of where the changes are to take place.


Then, select the Clone Tool and a Brush Setting …

Next, click on the source area for the cloned background choice (it will be tied to the brush as you move it) by pressing  opt/alt-click (Mac), or alt-click (PC).

Paint away and then Photoshop>File>Save (or cmd-S/ctrl-S) and the image will be saved back to Lightroom and stored alongside the original image.

A couple of trivial images show this with a mainly white background. In Lightroom after editing and cropping I get a square image …

… but perhaps a postcard shape would be better …

Content aware fill after transformation

I first used this technique to present a panel on the church in Llantrisant by making it appear that I’d shot the panel from directly in front of it, whereas I’d taken the shot from below and to the left of the panel.

The original shot …

… after transformations in Lightroom to try and get the perspective right …

… after cloning and content aware fill in Photoshop …

I’ll now try to re-create the fill part of this process with this photo …

Straightened in Lightroom – note no Constrained Crop applied (which would have greatly reduced the image space – losing quite a bit of the branch) …

… then after Content Aware Fill applied in Photoshop …

What are the steps …

  1. Select the Magic Wand Tool in Photoshop – you do this from the Action Tools icon (see below) …

  1. Click on one of the Gap areas
  2. Continue with Shift-click to extend the areas you want to apply Content Aware Fill
  3. Expand the area that the fill will be applied to … Photoshop>Select>Modify>Expand – suggested that 4 pixels is chosen
  4. Then Photoshop>Edit>Content Aware Fill …
  5. Try changing the Fill settings>Colour adaptation (see Magic Minutes video in References)
  6. Finally, save back to Lightroom when it looks the way you want it to.

Focus Stacking

Take a look at this video which shows how you can get an infinite depth of field – focus is perfect therefore from front-to-back.

Removing a background

Sometimes you might want to remove the background of an image, this video shows you how you can achieve this.

Removing anything from an image

Lots of ways of doing this ranging from the easy and straightforward way to a more comprehensive treatment of the subject using layers.

Here’s how you might remove something that detracts from an image (eg a fence)

Painting out the fence on a layer mask

  1. Open your image and make a new layer. Rename it “fence mask.”
  2. Zoom in close to your fence, then choose a hard-edged brush that is just slightly larger than the edge of your fence (be sure your paintbrush color is black).
  3. To paint the fence, simply click at the beginning of the fence, then hold the shift key, move the brush to the next section of fence and click. This will create a straight line.
  4. Continue this process over every section of the fence. While this can take some time, duplicating the pattern generally won’t work as no two sections will be the same).
  5. While zoomed in, to move around the image, press the space bar to bring up the Hand and then move the image to where you need it. Then continue painting in the fence lines.
  6. Be sure to paint over all the discrepancies in the fence. If some sections of the fence aren’t straight, simply paint in two or three points.
  7. Once you have painted in all the fence lines, you can move onto the next step.
Apply the Content Aware Fill
  1. Select the background layer and turn off the fence mask layer using the eye icon next to the layer.
  2. Now hold Ctrl (PC) or Cmd (Mac) and click on the thumbnail of the fence mask layer. This will select the fence layer.
  3. Go to Edit->Content-Aware Fill (If you are using an older version of Photoshop, for to Edit->Fill and then choose Content-Aware from the dropdown section).
  4. This will open up the Content-Aware Fill settings. Leave them at the default settings. Just change the Output To: setting to New Layer. Click OK.
  5. Press Ctrl+D (PC) or Cmd+D (Mac) to deselect the fence.
  6. To see how the Content-Aware Fill tool has worked, turn off your background layer momentarily. Then turn it back on.

The original after editing in Lightroom …

… the wire removedin Photoshop, but an artefact left behind …

… which I did a quick attempt to edit back in Lightroom – and I do mean quick – to show that you can continue editing an image in Lightroom after its been to Photoshop (and back) …

For more information on how to do more edits using this technique as a starter, look at this article (from which the notes above were taken) …

Replacing a boring sky

This technique relies on you having a library of “interesting skies” which match the colour tone of the image that you’re working on!

Changing the colour of anything

Say the colour of a dress, this article shows how it can be done.

Some further reading or watching

A video series – Getting started with Photoshop – for Photoshop beginners (like me)
Setting-up Lightroom and Photoshop to work together – a comprehensive guide to the Preferences boxes, from which I just selected the important ones.

Sending a RAW file from Lightroom to Photoshop, and some basic editing – besides describing how you send a RAW file to and from Photoshop, this article describes how the two might work together after a Transform in Lightroom might require a subsequent Content Aware Fill in Photoshop.

A beginner’s Guide to Adobe Photoshop – focuses on editing in Photoshop, not in Lightroom, so perhaps not so easy to follow, but does explain the basic features of Photoshop reasonably well.

Understanding Layers in Photoshop – an introduction to Layers, why and how they can be used, as well as describing Adjustment Layers and Masks. Reasonably easy to read and understand; the penny dropped for me after reading this!

Photoshop Adjustment Layers, Part 1 and Part 2 – beyond the description of what they do, these articles describe how you might use them and what the various settings you can employ mean, and do.

A comprehensive treatment of Content Aware Fill – not for the faint hearted, but it does show how a perfect result can be achieved!

Photoshop Magic Minutes (from Adobe) – many videos in this series. They are all just one minute long! This one shows Colour adaptation setting in Content aware fill – how one setting in Photoshop’s Content Aware Fill workspace can greatly enhance the way that the image edit turns out.

Publishing images from Lightroom to Flickr, Dropbox and the web

This is not a post that replaces or upgrades any information published elsewhere … it just clarifies in my mind what I should do when I setup a Publish service in Lightroom, or Export from Lightroom with the intention of using an image on another service. Just to be clear, there is no right solution, just a number of things you need to bear in mind. What are these?

Well to start with, the output medium or device, is critical as it will affect the sizing decision of the image you make prior to publishing, or export.

There is the format of the image which is related to the above – it might be TIFF if the image is to be printed, otherwise it is likely to be PNG (from Lr Classic 8.4, August 2019), or more likely JPEG.

Then there is the compression, or quality, you decide to accept if you’re converting from RAW to JPEG. This won’t be an issue if you’re already working with a native JPEG image, unless it’s produced a very large file size when you might consider some further compression, prior to the re-sizing I discuss below.

So … the output device. If it’s going to a print shop you’ll probably be selecting TIFF and will size the image as you require it – so I’ll ignore that except to say that you need to enquire what Resolution the print shop can accept – the file size will be large, depend on that! If it’s going to your printer then you’re going to print to the maximum size that your printer will allow and you should use the Print module in Lightroom, but making sure that you let the printer control the  Colour Management. You might need to convert to JPEG to print to your printer, if there is no device driver for your printer in Lightroom and then you will have to Export first; but if you’re using the Print module in Lightroom, this will not be necessary.

If the export is to a display screen you need to know the dimensions that the screen will support. There is no sense in sizing an image larger than the device is capable of displaying as that will just produce an image file size larger than it needs to be. Likewise it’s debatable whether it’s desirable to enlarge an image to match the dimensions of the device as that will involve interpolation (inventing data) and the image quality will therefore drop – let the device do the re-sizing if necessary!

So the Lightroom settings for a 4K screen might be either of …

… or …

… of which I’d probably select the latter. Note the Resolution field. This is totally superfluous when exporting an image for a screen display, or indeed for the web. Note also the Sharpen options which you should choose appropriately. If you’ve sharpened in the Lightroom Develop module already, you might not want to further Sharpen here.

If you’re exporting to Flickr or Google Photos then you need to take note of the size that the service will accept. For Flickr each image will have to be less than 200Mb (or it will be compressed), but with a cap on file storage space of 1Tb and 1000 images in total it makes sense to use an Image Sizing long edge value of 1024px. For Flickr Pro users there is no limit, so you can size as you wish. If you’re using Google Photos then the “free” allowance limit is 16mp for each image, so it’s perhaps worth bearing this in mind and using an Image Sizing Megapixel size of 16mp.

If you’re Exporting (Publishing) to the web you need to consider the maximum size that you can “get away with”, because the smaller the image size, the faster it will load. Generally, I’d probably use a Long Edge Value of 1024px and Sharpen to a High level.

Now we come to the RAW to JPEG conversion, which like re-sizing of the image dimensions  will also affect the file size of your image.

Lightroom fortunately provides only one parameter to consider here, after you’ve chosen the Colour Space which should normally be sRGB. This parameter is called Quality. It doesn’t call it “compression” because it is taken as read that JPEG is a lossy format, and that compression and loss of data will take place in the transformation. It is left to you to decide what level of Quality you can accept. To help you Jeffrey Friedl has written an excellent, one might even go so far as saying the definitive, article on the subject. So much so that I’m not going to even try and summarise it. But having read it – which you should, you might also choose to look at this one too.

From reading this and my own experiments, I’ve decided to adopt a Quality setting of 72 as my general purpose setting. It’s NOT a good idea to Limit the File Size here – instead look at re-sizing the image as previously described to reduce the file size, if necessary.

So to export to Dropbox for instance, to share images on a 4K screen, my settings would be …

And that’s it.